This blog will span the worlds of fiber and bead art with a dash of poetry and politics. It is blog central for Mirrix Tapestry & Bead Looms, which is owned and operated by Claudia Chase. It is also related to the purely creative side of Claudia's life, Mirrix Studio. To return to Mirrix home page go to: www.mirrixlooms.com
Either buy the kit or just follow these instructions!
Instructions for Making a pastel cuff Bead Bracelet using the Mirrix Loom
Materials Included for making one bracelet:
Nine different colors of Delica beads
A brass cuff
C-Lon beading thread
Necessary tools not included in the kit:
A Mirrix Loom with or without a shedding device
14 dent warp coil
A piece of cloth for holding beads; a beading needle, a blunt edge needle
Warping your Mirrix Loom:
Warp Coil size: 18 dents
Number of warps: 22
Number of rows: 99
You can use any of the Mirrix Looms to create this lovely bracelet. This piece can be woven with or without the shedding device. It’s your choice. Try Both!
You will want to reduce your loom’s height to minimize the amount of warp you will use. If you have a larger Mirrix Loom, this can be accomplished by using the extra warping bar. Use the 18 dent coil for this project. You will need to have 22 warp threads. We have included a bead pattern to demonstrate the placement of colors.
To Begin Weaving:
Place nine piles of the different colored cylinder beads on a cloth in front of your loom.
Cut a length of C-lon thread about a yard long. Tie the end of this thread to the bottom of the left threaded rod on your loom using a slip knot so that you can easily release it and weave it back into your piece later. Beginning with the first row, pick up three of each bead color according to the pattern provided. Continue weaving by following the pattern, stopping at 99 rows.
To remove the weaving from the loom, loosen the tension on the loom and remove the warp bar. Lay your piece flat and trim the ends so that you have at least four inches left to work with (the longer the better). Tie overhand knots with warp pairs. When you’ve tied all the knots, trim the warp to about an inch in length.
Ultrasuede: Lay the beadwork on the Ultrasuede and trace the outline of the beadwork onto the Ultrasuede. Trim the Ultrasuede to match the size of the beadwork.
Use a toothpick to spread a thin, even layer of adhesive over the back of the beadwork and to one side of the Ultrasuede. Place the brass cuff blank between the two and sandwich them together. Smooth both pieces to remove any gaps and make sure they two pieces are aligned. Allow to dry overnight.
Sewing: Sew the Ultrasuede to the bead work using C-Lon thread. Use a whip stitch. Try to be as neat as possible but don’t obsess because you will be disguising imperfect stitches with a pico edging.
Edging: Cuta yard length ofC-Lon thread. Bury the end between a corner of the beadwork and the Ultrasuede. You will begin a pico stitch by entering the back of the first bead, picking up three beads and entering the front of the next bead. Come out through the back to the front of the next bead, string up three beads and enter the front of the next bead. Continue in this fashion until you reach the end of the row. The picot stitch for the two ends will consist of coming out the side of a bead, stringing three beads, entering the bead again. These stitches will be closer together and might ruffle a bit, which is pretty.